You will get various types of windposts to fit the particular job you are doing. There are four general catagories of windpost. Within each catagory there will also be various sizes available. UKLintels offer their own system of each of these for your consideration and engineers approval prior to ordering online.

• WP2 or LP Windpost; Angle (L shape) system built within the inner leaf.
• WP3 or U Windpost; Channel (C Shape) system built within the cavity void.
• DU Windpost; Double Channel (C Shape) system built within the cavity void for heavier loading conditions.
• SHS Windpost; Box section system built within the inner leaf or cavity void.
  
  Did you know? Shorter windpost for windows are often refered to as parapet posts.

WP2 – Angle (L shape) system built within the inner leaf of a cavity wall
WHAT IS A WP2 WINDPOST?

WP1 & WP3 – Channel (C Shape) system built within the cavity void leaving the brickwork undisturbed. 
WHAT IS A WP3 WINDPOST?

DU – Double WP3 (welded or bolted back to back) installed within the cavity between your brickwork inner and outer leaf leaving the brickwork undisturbed.
WHAT IS A DU WINDPOST?

Visit our Windpost Superstore now to build and order online any of the above Windposts.

SHS – A box section (Square Hollow Section) installed within the inner leaf or within the cavity void.
WHAT IS AN SHS WINDPOST?

WP2 Windposts – An angle system that sits within the inner leaf brickwork and is tied to the inner leaf with 100mm long wall ties. The angle is also tied to the outer leaf brickwork with longer wall ties. The angle is fixed at the base and top with brackets and cleats.

You can CONFIGURE ONLINE a WP2 windpost (150x90x10) section. Below is an explanation of how to use our online configurator with various tips for each stage.

The top connection will be a choice of fitting to attach to Timber, Steel or Concrete beam. You may also download our PDF Installation guide.

Step 1 – Select your top connection bracket. Once the top bracket is fixed in to place, the remaining stem can either be built in to your inner skin, or cut off on site with a disc cutter and the cut end treated with cold zinc spray which can be purchased online. The various options are shown on screen and click NEXT once you have made your selection.

Step 2 – You will decide on the length of the stem you will need. 2m to 3m stems come as one piece. Whereas, 4.0m+ options are two or three stems with a collar bracket connections. The collar bracket and bolts are supplied as part of the kit when you select these lengths and the stems are pre-dilled by UKLintels before delivery.

Step 3 – select your base connection. WP2 windposts are built within the inner wall and therefore the WP2 system has only one base connection offering. Select the below base connections for your windpost and click next. The below sketch shows the stem installed to a 100mm wide inner skin. The baseplate will sit within the cavity as shown.

Step 4 – Various extension plates are also available to suit your specific project. This is because you may wish to have a longer plate for your top connection cleat than our standard 150mm long T1 & T2. Should you need to lengthen the overall dimension of the plate length to T1, T2 then select a plate extension pack (2 plates per pack & 4no set bolts) will lengthen the plate with a mechanical bolt fixing by 100mm per pack. You can have as many packs as you like!

Step 5 – All windpost require tying into the inner and outer wall with the use of wall ties. We recommend that a wall tie pack is added to your configuration as we supply the stainless steel wall tie, tek-screw/washer and an isolation pad to debond the stainless steel tie from the galvanized stem to prohibit cross contamination of materials.

Wall Ties are installed to suit the brick coursing (usually at 225mm ctrs). Each tie pack consists of 27no ties at 100mm and 13no of your own choice, 40no Isolation Pads, 40no Tek Screws. You can select the Tie B length required using the options online from 75mm to 200mm tie lengths.

Unlike the image below our stems are not pre-slotted for your ties. This gives far more flexibility on site with your brick coursing. The overall sketch below gives a generic example of how a WP2 may be installed within a cavity wall with a base fixing and top cleat fixing to timber (side fix connection). The wall ties through the slots would be to tie in the inner leaf and you can see the wall ties fixed to the angle face to tie in the outer leaf masonry wall.

The length of Tie B should be sufficient to allow an embedment of at least 62.5mm meaning the minimum embedment of 50mm is always achieved after allowing for site tolerances. The tie length will depend on the overall cavity size, and the position of the windpost within the inner wall (and the inner wall thickness). Should you require a tie pack with one side longer than the other as shown below, then you can order a mixed ties pack. You can also buy online additional tie pack and other accessory components.

CONGRATS – You have now build your windpost, you can amend the quantity and add to basket.

Visit your basket to review your order. You can click on CALCULATE MY SHIPPING to review all collection and delivery options from our Premium Next Day, Fast Track, Standard or Free Delivery (up to 10 days) shipping. Alternatively, you can also Click & Collect from us!

WP3 Windposts – A channel system that sits within the cavity tying the inner and outer wall with wall ties, fixed at the base and top with brackets and cleats.

How does a UKLintels WP3 Windpost differ from Ancon | IG or Expamet (Birtley) Section Windpost?

Below shows in one easy to see table Ancon WP3 | IG U & Expamet U Section Windposts. It also shows the UKLintels system within this range of products. This table should be used as a guide only. Please check this table against the manufacturers latest published data for accuracy.

You can CONFIGURE ONLINE a WP3 windpost (85x60x6) section. Below is an explanation of how to use our online configurator with various tips for each stage.

The top connection will be a choice of fitting to attach to a timber, steel, or concrete beam. You can also download our PDF Installation guide.

Step 1 select your top connection bracket. The top brackets are open brackets so the top connection bracket can slide up and down the windpost. Once the top bracket is fixed in to place, the remaining stem can either be left sailing in to the cavity, or cut off on site with a disc cutter and the cut end treated with cold zinc spray which can be purchased online. The various options are shown on screen and click NEXT once you have made your selection.

Step 2 you will decide on the length of the stem you will need. 2.5m – 3.5m stems come as one piece. 5.0m + options are two stems with a collar bracket connection. The collar bracket and bolts are supplied as part of the kit when you select these lengths and the stems are pre-dilled by UKLintels before delivery.

Step 3 – select your base connection. The stem is pre-drilled with a slotted hole to allow for adjustment. The base bracket bolts to the stem.

Step 4 – Various extension plates are also available to suit your specific project. This is because cavity wall sizes change with various cavity sizes, inner and outer leaf widths. Typical walls can be anything from 250mm overall (100mm inner leaf, 50mm cavity, 100mm outer leaf) to 405mm. In addition, the position of the windpost within the cavity can sometimes be central or more towards one side (often closer to the inner leaf).

The standard baseplate on our top and bottom brackets therefore sometimes need to be extended to allow for these variations.The extension plates enable this via mechanically fixing additional plates to the existing bracket. Each extension plate consists of two plates and 4 bolts and extend the bracket by 100mm as shown below.

Step 5 – All windpost require tying into the inner and outer wall with the use of wall ties. We recommend that a wall tie pack is added to your configuration as we supply the stainless steel wall tie, tek-screw/ washer and an isolation pad to debond the stainless steel tie from the galvanized stem to prohibit cross contamination of materials.

Wall ties are installed to suit the brick coursing (usually at 225mm ctrs). Each tie pack consists of 30no stainless steel wall ties, 30no Isolation Pads, 30no Tek Screws. You can select the tie length required using the options online from 75mm to 200mm tie lengths.

The length of the tie should be sufficient to allow an embedment of at least 62.5mm meaning the minimum embedment of 50mm is always achieved after allowing for site tolerances. The tie length will depend on the overall cavity size, and the position of the windpost within the cavity. Should you require a tie pack with one side longer than the other as shown below, then you can order a mixed ties pack. You can also buy online additional tie pack and other accessory components.

CONGRATS – You have now built your windpost – amend the qty required and add to basket.

Visit your basket to review your order. You can click on CALCULATE MY SHIPPING to review all collection and delivery options from our premium next day, to free up to 10 day shipping.

DU Windpost – A double channel system built within the cavity. DU windposts are a heavier duty variant of the WP3 Windpost. Comprised of a ‘back-to-back’ channel section engineered for heavier loading conditions.

You can CONFIGURE ONLINE a DU windpost which is 2no (85x60x6) C channel sections. Below is an explanation of how to use our online configurator with various tips for each stage.

The top connection will be a choice of fitting to attach to a timber, steel, or concrete beam. You can also download our PDF Installation guide.

Step 1 – select your top connection bracket. The top brackets are open brackets so the top connection bracket can slide up and down the windpost. Once the top bracket is fixed in to place, the remaining stem can either be left sailing in to the cavity, or cut off on site with a disc cutter and the cut end treated with cold zinc spray which can be purchased online. The various options are shown on screen and click NEXT once you have made your selection.

Step 2 – you will decide on the length of the stem you will need. 2.5m – 3.5m stems come as one piece. 5.0m + options are two stems with a collar bracket connection. The collar bracket and bolts are supplied as part of the kit when you select these lengths and the stems are pre-dilled by UKLintels before delivery.

Step 3 – select your base connection. The stem is pre-drilled with a slotted hole to allow for adjustment. The base bracket bolts to the stem.

Step 4 – Various extension plates are also available to suit your specific project. This is because cavity wall sizes change with various cavity sizes, inner and outer leaf widths. Typical walls can be anything from 250mm overall (100mm inner leaf, 50mm cavity, 100mm outer leaf) to 405mm. In addition, the position of the windpost within the cavity can sometimes be central or more towards one side (often closer to the inner leaf).

The standard baseplate on our top and bottom brackets therefore sometimes need to be extended to allow for these variations.The extension plates enable this via mechanically fixing additional plates to the existing bracket. Each extension plate consists of two plates and 4 bolts and extend the bracket by 100mm as shown below.

Step 5 – All windpost require tying into the inner and outer wall with the use of wall ties. We recommend that a wall tie pack is added to your configuration as we supply the stainless steel wall tie, tek-screw/ washer and an isolation pad to debond the stainless steel tie from the galvanized stem to prohibit cross contamination of materials.

Wall ties are installed to suit the brick coursing (usually at 225mm ctrs). Each tie pack consists of 60no stainless steel wall ties, 60no Isolation Pads, 60no Tek Screws. You can select the tie length required using the options online from 75mm to 200mm tie lengths.

The length of the tie should be sufficient to allow an embedment of at least 62.5mm meaning the minimum embedment of 50mm is always achieved after allowing for site tolerances. The tie length will depend on the overall cavity size, and the position of the windpost within the cavity. Should you require a tie pack with one side longer than the other as shown below, then you can order a mixed ties pack. You can also buy online additional tie pack and other accessory components.

You have now created your windpost! You can adjust the quantity and add it to the basket.

Visit your basket to review your order. You can click on CALCULATE MY SHIPPING to review all collection and delivery options from our Premium Next Day, Fast Track, Standard or Free Delivery (up to 10 days) shipping. Alternatively, you can also Click & Collect from us!

SHS Windpost – A box section (Square Hollow Section) built within the cavity or inner leaf tying the inner and outer wall with wall ties, fixed at the base with a welded baseplate and top with a loose top angle cleat.

You can CONFIGURE ONLINE a SHS windpost (80x80x5) section which is 3500mm in length and comes with a welded base plate (250x250x10). Below is an explanation of how to use our online configurator with various tips for each stage.

Step 1 – Select your post. For this windpost, there will only be 1 option to choose from. You may view our Techincal Drawings on our item page to see all details on this post.

Step 2 – Select your wall ties. We recommend that a wall tie pack is added to your configuration as we supply the stainless steel wall tie, tek-screw/ washer and an isolation pad to debond the stainless steel tie from the galvanized stem to prohibit cross contamination of materials.

Finalise – You have now build your SHS Post. Now just amend your quantity and add to basket!

Visit your basket to review your order. You can click on CALCULATE MY SHIPPING to review all collection and delivery options from our Premium Next Day, Fast Track, Standard or Free Delivery (up to 10 days) shipping. Alternatively, you can also Click & Collect from us!

So, you have found out that you need windposts. Unfortunately, you cannot just walk down to your local builders merchants and buy as many as you need. Unless you come to UKLintels Windpost Superstore!

Typically, windposts are bespoke items. You have to get an engineer or architect to assist you in specially designing the windposts you need for your construction project. A manufacturer can configure them to your specific needs but this process will involve issuing construction drawings for review and the manufacturer will provide a technical drawing for approval prior to manufacture. This process can be stressful for the client, and can take up to 4 weeks. Once approved, the manufacture time will be an additional 4 weeks making the whole process take months to receive your product.

Windpost design has advantages because you will know that you are getting a custom-fit product. However, this means a wait of several weeks to receive your product. It also doesn’t allow for errors during this technical phase where often the wrong stem length is provided making the delivered product useless and the process needs to be started again. The global supply chain crisis has made waiting times even longer and led to price increases in the construction industry.

Is there a faster way to receive Windposts?
Yes, order for Next day delivery from UKLintels Windpost Superstore

Some people find out they will need windposts when they have already begun building. The idea of losing time and money by waiting for months can be a massive headache.

A construction site can be an unpredictable place. You cannot always tell how long a project will take and what problems will crop up. Finding out you need a windpost can add to your stress, especially if it will take months to arrive. This can stall your project and cost you money.

Our unique windpost configurators provides a quick and easy solution to this dilemma for galvanized Windpost. Contact us for more information or try the online configurator today – BUILD NOW

You can buy three component parts separately, which will be put together at your building site.

The three parts you can order online are:

• The top connection
• The stem
• The base connection
• Accessory packs such as Wall Ties, additional or replacement brackets.

You will want to do this in close coordination with a structural engineer. Technical specifications and drawings are available to guide you and your builder. You will receive a product leaflet with tips for the installation of your windpost.

That’s it, next day delivery available.

Your windpost is built and can be added to basket (select the qty required) and delivered next day if required (various delivery options are available to select at basket/checkout).

Visit our Windpost Superstore now to build and order online.

Steel Lintel Load Table

You may have seen some specification tables on our product pages for our steel lintels. But, you aren’t too sure what all the parts really mean? Well, you’re in the right place! Let us tell you!

Below is a detailed diagram of what all the parts of our specification tables mean.

Concrete Load Span Tables

The concrete lintel specification tables are similar to steel lintels, however, there are two slight differences. 

• So, the first difference is the UDL which stands for ‘Uniformly Disturbed Load’, this is measured in kilonewtons per metre, this will be shown on the table as kN/m. They are simply the opposites of what the steel load tables are, steel load bearing capabilities go up as the length increases. Whereas, with prestressed concrete it is quite the opposite, the longer the length the lower the load bearing capabilities.
• Clear span is the length of the opening. So, if for example you have a clear span of 1500mm, you will need a 1800mm this is to fit the required span of 150mm each end of the opening.
• Good thing you may want to know, our concrete fire rating is 30 minutes.

Very important thing to remember is not to confuse the kNm with kN/m. They are very similar, and it is so easy to confuse the two. However, the kN/m is kilonewtons per metre or divided by metre. Whereas, kNm is a force measurement where kilonewtons are times metres.

Click box above and ask us a question!

At UK Lintels, we have designed our own concept of Thermally Efficient Lintels. Which are the most cost effective and most available from stock, on the market!

What are they?

They’re an energy efficient type of steel lintel used in masonry cavity wall constructions. They provide support over the structural openings (doors and windows), whilst reducing linear thermal bridging heat loss compared to regular cavity lintels. Our own brand version is a split lintel solution. Split lintels are also the most thermally efficient lintel on the market with 0.010 Psi value (Catnic BSD & Angle) compared to 0.043 (Catnic one piece Thermally Broken Lintels).

Psi Value Image Source: Catnic Sept 2022 Product brochure & Separate Lintels Full Fill cavity Wall Construction Psi values 5-2-15. Split lintel data an example of using a Catnic BSD insulated & ANG angle lintel. UltraTherm lintels are am alternative to these two lintels.

What are the advantages of our UltraTherm Lintels?

• It is the most versatile energy efficient lintel solution on the market.
• This is the most available thermally efficient lintel system, all items are in stock and available for Next Day & Fast Track delivery. Therefore, no costly down time waiting for materials.
• It is the most cost effective (available from stock) thermally efficient lintel solution on the market.
• Suitable for any cavity size. There are no restrictions on cavity widths.
• There is an insulated internal box, therefore, your cavity and the inner leaf is insulated. You do not have this with a one piece thermal lintel.

Why use an UltraTherm Lintel?

Using an energy efficient lintel improves the thermal performance of the wall and focuses on the increasing proportion of heat lost through thermal bridges. Lintels can be a major thermal bridge in a building. Therefore, the lower the psi value, the better for the overall performance.

How can I improve the psi values?

• You may use things such as:
• Lintels with perforated base plates.
• Lintels without base plates.
• UltraTherm split lintels (which is a separate lintel for the inner and outer leaf).
• Thermally broken lintels (Catnic | IG Keystone | Birtley).

Thermal Performance

Target fabric energy rates, target CO2 emission rates, and target primary energy rates for the foundations of the Building Regulations Part L 2021. They set the energy requirements for the new buildings and are all influenced by the performance of the fabric. Selecting a Thermally Efficient Lintel can play a significant role in reducing heat loss associated with thermal bridging.

Heat loss through the building fabric is expressed as a U value and measured in W/M2K, while heat loss via linear thermal bridges is expressed as a psi value and measured in W/Mk. The total fabric heat loss is the sum of the combined fabric U value multiplied by the total area, plus the product psi value of junctions and their total length.

Improving the thermal performance of the wall emphasises the increasing proportion of heat lost through thermal bridges in the building fabric such as lintels. Lintels can be a major thermal bridge in a building, and the lower psi value, the better for overall performance.

Buildability Myths of 2 piece lintels vs 1 piece lintel

There are some myths (created by the manufacturers of the product) that using split lintels isn’t as efficient for buildability purposes. We give some simple answers to those myths;

• Confusion over site installation. One piece manufacturers argue that they are easier to install. We’ve produced an installation guide (right) to assist in the installation of a UltraTherm Split Lintel. Building two courses with separate lintels is not a new concept and will not be alien to any experienced bricklayer. A competent bricklayer will see no issue with this detail.
• No DPC required for a one piece lintel. A DPC is required for a UltraTherm lintel but we would endorse that it is good practice for any opening to have a separate DPC installed above the lintel. IG/Keystone even show this in blue in their product image online and in their brochure. For many areas of the UK a separate DPC is still required for any lintel as per NHBC guidelines.
• Cavity Closer required – Yes, a one piece lintel does close the cavity without a cavity closer but these are very inexpensive items at around £9 for a 2.4m length and available off the shelf. The cavity closure also provides a better overall site detail.
• Lack of stability – Stability between the inner and outer leaf comes from the wall ties. The one piece lintel has very little impact on stability and once the mortar has cured even less.
• Angle and Channel lintels to the outer leaf need to be propped. Whilst it is always good practice to prop single leaf lintels they do not need propping up to 1200mm long as long as they are installed with 2 courses of bricks, allowing the mortar to fully cure before applying further load. 1350mm–2400mm (1 prop), 2550–3600 (2 props), 3750-4800 (3 props).

What we offer

In our Thermally Efficient Split Lintels we offer different duties (Standard, Heavy, Extra Heavy) and various inner/outer leaf sizes to suit your requirements.
This lintel solution is in stock and available for Collection from our branch in Bristol, Next Day Delivery or Fast Track Delivery, Nationwide.

Any more questions?

No problem! You can contact us our technical team will be happy to assist you!

Don’t know where to start? Not to worry, let us help you!

A question we get asked frequently is, how to fix a curtain pole or track to a steel lintel. So, below is some guidance but generally it depends on the type of steel lintel in place.

Traditional cavity lintels allow for a masonry block to be on the inner leaf. Therefore, you will be fixing to the masonry inner leaf of the wall and not the steel lintel as per the below diagram. Some inner leaf lintels are known as wide inner leaf, where the inner leaf will be thicker 125-150mm as opposed to a more traditional 100mm inner leaf.

You may want to consider the following, when drilling into masonry or concrete lintels.

• Start with a small masonry drill bit around 3mm, drill a shallow hole on low power.
• Then, increase the drill size gradually to one required and increase the speed.
• Every 10 seconds or so, remove leftover dust and debris.
• If you find resistance in the concrete lintel you may have hit the reinforcing bar which are typically 10-12mm in diameter. In this instance you could either move your fixing hole or use an SDS drill bit (Slotted Drive System) to penetrate the reinforcing bar. The picture below shows a 140×215 hi-strength concrete lintel and the circle shows the reinforcing bar in each corner, which will run throughout the concrete lintel length.

• An important thing to remember when you are drilling any holes is, that it is crucial to hold your drill straight. This is important so, the hole is straight. Otherwise, when you insert any fixings or screws, they will sit at an angle.
• Once the hole is suitably drilled to the correct depth, use a suitable RAWL plug and screw to fix your brackets.
• However, some lintels have a steel inner leaf like internal box lintels. These are often trickier to fix to. The reason being, the installer may come across some resistance when he ‘hits’ the steel lintel. The diagram below shows a steel box lintel in a 200mm solid wall (a lintel often used above garage doors). When drilling from the inside you will penetrate the plasterboard, then hit the steel box lintel after about 10-20mm. This will therefore require a different method of fixing.

Things to consider when you are drilling into steel lintels.

• Start with a small masonry drill bit around 3mm.
• After you penetrate the plaster, you will reach the steel lintel. Don’t continue to drill into the steel lintel.
• Change your drill bit for a high-speed steel bit using self-tapping screws or often referred to as Tek-Screws locating the original pilot hole drilled.
• Titanium coated or bullet tip drill bits are most appropriate when drilling into steel lintels. Also, using cooling paste for the drill bits will stop it from overheating and will cut through more effectively.

Tips & Mistakes to Avoid

• Always remember to wear eye & breathing protection (such as a mask and goggles). This way you will avoid inhaling any dust coming from the drill or getting any dust/debris/steel splinters in your eyes.
• Battery powered drills aren’t recommended for drilling into lintels. The reason being, they do not have enough power to drill through a steel or a concrete lintel. Also, using a battery powered drill could take a lifetime! Instead try a SDS drill (as mentioned in points above), this will be way more powerful and more effective for the job!
• Take your time. Drilling a hole into a concrete lintel will need your full concentration to avoid crumbling or breaking of the lintel, you cannot rush. It is important to take often breaks while doing this task. Mainly, to double check on your drill bit as due to the pressure, it may need replacing before continuing drilling.

Every house has a number of openings for doors and windows. Most of these are in structural load-bearing walls. These walls are critical to the building structure as they carry the load of the floor above them and the roof.

To support this weight, you need a solid lintel to span the gap and transfer the weight onto the surrounding walls. Each lintel must be carefully positioned and installed according to specific U.K. building regulations. By following these, you know that your lintel is capable of supporting the load above it.

Concrete lintels are a common type of lintel due to their low cost and long-term resistance to fire and corrosion. They also offer superior thermal insulation and can prevent cold bridging problems that occur with steel lintels.

If you’re interested in learning about concrete lintels and the best way to install them, you’re in the right place. In this guide, we’ll explain what the advantages of concrete lintels are and how to ensure they’re professionally installed.

How Lintels Work in Your Home

Whenever you have an opening in a wall the weight of the structure above it needs to be supported. A concrete lintel beam distributes this load onto the surrounding masonry. Without a lintel, all of the building’s weight would rest on top of the window or door frame.

These wooden and aluminium frames are not designed to withstand heavy loads. In comparison, precast concrete lintels are specifically designed and built to resist large downward forces. They distribute this pressure onto the adjacent walls which are then supported by the building floor slab and foundations.

Concrete lintels are usually constructed with steel bars embedded in the concrete. These reinforce the concrete and provide the structural integrity to resist large compressive loads. The steel also gives the lintel a small amount of flexibility to bend without breaking.

Why You Might Need a Lintel

If you’re planning some DIY home renovations that involve new windows or doors, it’s vital to find out which walls are load-bearing. Breaking open non-load bearing walls is possible for a home builder enthusiast that has some building experience.

It is not advisable to attempt to make changes to a load-bearing wall without the help of a professional builder. Structural alterations can be extremely dangerous and need to be approved by an engineer before you can make any new window or door openings.

Stressline Performance for Concrete Lintels

UKLintels are major stockists and suppliers of Stressline concrete lintels which are designed with concrete strength 50N/mm2 and offer a minimum of ½ hour fire resistance.

Apart from 140×65 and 215×65 lintel sections all other STANDARD lintels are reversible, which means that they can be used either way around to suit the wall construction. Always check loadings against our load span tables.

Hi-Strength lintels are marked ‘TOP’ and the surface must be kept at uppermost all times.

Steps to Install Concrete Lintels

Concrete lintel installation is a fairly easy process if you are building your home from the ground up rather than renovating existing walls. In this guide, we’ll discuss how to install a lintel in a new wall. Let’s break down each step in more detail.

1. Calculate Load-Bearing Weight

When buying concrete lintels online, it’s important to check the load distribution tables associated with the lintel and to seek advice from a structural engineer as to what section of concrete lintel is required.
These will give you the uniformly distributed load (UDL) that the lintel can support in kiloNewtons per meter (kN/m). They will also provide you with the resistance movement (RM) for each lintel.

2. Tools Needed

As most lintels are installed above head height, it’s important to have some sturdy scaffolding that can support your concrete lintel weight. You will also need a selection of standard masonry tools.

These should include:

• Masonry hammer
• Masonry chisel
• Mortar trowel
• Masonry square
• Spirit level
• Masons line
• Tape measure
• Brush
• Shovel/cement mixer
• Mortar bucket

3. Bed on Mortar

On each side of the lintel, you need to have enough space to adequately support the lintel. This is known as the minimum end bearing and should be at least 150mm. For lintels shorter than 1m, you can reduce this to 100mm. With lintels longer than 3m, you should extend it to 200mm.

Lintels should always be supported by full bricks or padstones to provide a solid base. Never use a cut brick and mortar as the base of the lintel as this will not distribute the weight evenly.

Once you’ve mixed up a nice firm consistency mortar you can apply it to the support on either side. Aim to distribute the mortar evenly on both sides. You can then place the lintel in position and bed it down into the mortar to ensure a thorough connection.

When installing a long lintel over 1.2m, it’s advisable to prop the lintel up at the centre point. You should leave this support in place until the mortar has set.

4. Ensure Its Level

As soon as the lintel is in position, it’s vital you use a spirit level to make sure it’s completely flat. It’s very important to spread the load evenly onto both sides of the support. You can use a straight edge laid along the top of the lintel to get a more accurate reading on your level.

It’s also important to check the level across the width of the lintel. This will provide you with a flat surface to place the next row of bricks on. Failing to check this can result in the rest of your wall having an undesirable angle.

Most walls require two lintels side by side to match the width of the wall. By making sure that these are exactly level you can distribute the load evenly across both lintels. If one is slightly higher than the other, you risk putting excess stress on the higher lintel.

Make sure the masonry must not overhang the lintel by more than 25mm.

5. Wait for the Mortar to Cure

Before you put any load on your new lintel, it’s important to allow the mortar enough time to dry. Depending on the environmental conditions, you should wait at least 24 to 36 hours. This is extremely important to keep the lintel completely level.

Once the mortar has cured you can then continue to build your walls. In some situations, it may be necessary to install a damp-proof course above your lintel. When that is in position, you can start laying bricks on the lintel. All external wall lintels MUST be installed with a DPC.

Always position your bricks in a way that evenly distributes the weight across the lintel. Avoid applying too much weight to either side as this can cause structural problems within the lintel. Avoid shock loading of lintels during the installation of concrete floor units and any sideways loading while being fitted into position. Precast flooring units should be laid on a mortar bed across the whole wall width and should not be dragged over supports.

6. Inspect the lintel prior to installation

Before you install the lintel, the lintel should be explained to check for any defects or signs of damage. You should also check it is the correct section as per your engineers calculations.

Advantages of Concrete Lintels

Precast concrete lintels have a number of benefits when compared to steel lintels. The most significant of these is the price difference. Concrete lintels are a considerably more cost-effective option than any other type of lintel.

If you live near the coast, then you’re all too familiar with the corrosive effects of salt-laden air. The steel reinforcement in concrete lintels is encased in concrete and this means they are less susceptible to corrosion.

Another benefit of concrete lintels is that they are more resistant to high temperatures resulting from fires. When steel is heated, it loses its structural integrity and can fail. Concrete lintels will last longer in the event of a house fire and will help prevent further damage.

Are You Looking for Concrete Lintels?

Concrete lintels are the most economical way to support your doorway and window openings. They are easy for hobbyist builders to install and don’t require specialist knowledge or equipment.

If you’re looking for any type of lintel, then make sure you check out UK Lintels. We have over 35 years of experience providing a wide variety of lintels and are a fully CE accredited company for fabricated steelwork.

We only sell lintels that we already have in stock, so there’s no delay when ordering lintels from us. Our team provides next-day delivery across mainland England, Wales and Scotland. You can contact us online or call us at 033 3016 9789 to discuss your requirements.